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Kopi Kualitas Premium, Mengapa Belum Jadi Fokus Daerah?

Kanisius Teobaldus Deki

Peneliti Kopi, Staf Pengajar STIE Karya

Kopi Arabica Manggarai (KAM) merupakan kopi berkualitas tinggi. Hal ini dibuktikan pada tahun 2015 kopi ini dinobatkan menjadi Kopi Terbaik Indonesia dalam kontes kopi yang digelar oleh Asosiasi Eksportir dan Importir Kopi Indonesia di Banyuwangi, Jawa Timur. Sejak saat itu, KAM diminati banyak pihak. Harga kopi pada level petani mulai membaik, walau belum setara dengan harapan, namun tanda-tanda perubahan mulai tampak.

Sejak 28 Juni 2020 saya mengunjungi para petani kopi yang bergabung dalam kelompok dampingan Yayasan Ayo Indonesia, sebuah LSM yang bergerak pada pendampingan petani Manggarai Raya sejak tahun 1995. Dari 23 kelompok, saya mengunjungi 12 kelompok tani mulai dari Desa Lungar, Umung, Lolang di Kecamatan Satar Mese, Desa Ruang di Kecamatan Satar Mese Utara, Desa Cumbi, Bangka Lao, Golo Worok dan Laja di Kecamatan Ruteng, hingga Desa Wae Rii, Benteng Poco dan Ranaka di Kecamatan Wae Rii.

Artikel ini merupakan sebuah catatan perjalanan serentak sebuah refleksi kritis terhadap kebijakan pembangunan daerah Manggarai Raya bertitik tumpu pada temuan bahwa kopi merupakan produk andalan petani dalam menopang hidupnya.

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Kopi Arabica Manggara tumbuh di ketinggian 1.000-1.500 Mdpl dengan suhu lokal 15°C-25°C sehingga memiliki citarasa unik dengan aroma bunga bernuansa manis dan tingkat keasaman yang rendah (low acidity).  Aromanya yang kuat menggoda setiap peminum kopi untuk mencoba dan menentukan pilihan. Kopi Arabica ini memiliki  tekstur yang kuat dan memberikan kesan tersendiri bagi penikmat kopi melalui citarasa (taste): chocolate, nutty, tropical fruit dan medium body. Rasa (flavor) yang enak, sisa rasa (aftertaste) yang bertahan dan kemanisan (sweetness) mengikat penikmat kopi untuk terus memilih KAM.

Rasa dan mutu dijamin melalui alur proses  yang sudah terstandarisasi Internal Control System (ICS) sejak pemilihan benih, penyiapan lahan, penangkaran benih, penanaman, perawatan hingga pengelolaan pascapanen. Tak mengherankan, KAM masuk dalam 17 kopi yang mengikuti “Specialty Coffee Association of America SCAA Expo” tahun 2016 di kota Atlanta, Georgia. KAM telah diuji oleh Caswells Coffee yang bertindak sebagai kutaror kopi sekaligus sebagai satu-satunya laboratorium kopi di Indonesia yang tersertifikasi standar SCAA. KAM Manggarai lolos dengan “cupping score” di atas 83,5.

KAM dihasilkan oleh kelompok tani yang memiliki pola hidup selaras alam. Hal ini ditandai oleh proses perawatan tanaman kopi melalui pemupukan organik. Mereka dilatih oleh Yayasan Ayo Indonesia untuk mengolah pupuk sendiri dengan bahan lokal. Hasilnya, kopi ini memiliki citarasa specialty sekaligus menjamin kesehatan karena tidak tersentuh pupuk kimia.

Untuk menunjang keberlanjutan (sustainable), para petani KAM membentuk kelompok kerja. Kelompok kerja ini dinamai Kelompok Petani Kopi (KPK). Mereka didampingi oleh yayasan Ayo Indonesia melalui berbagai bentuk dukungan: penguatan sumber daya manusia dalam pelatihan-pelatihan sehingga mereka menjadi petani yang trampil, penyediaan benih unggul, pendampingan yang berkelanjutan hingga menghasilkan produk yang bermutu dan bersaing secara mondial.

Butuh Sentuhan Pemerintah

Perhatian atas KAM akhirnya menggerakkan semua pihak, termasuk di dalamnya Pemerintah Daerah Manggarai Raya (Kabupaten Manggarai, Manggarai Timur dan Manggarai Barat) untuk bersama para petani, Lembaga Swadaya Masyarakat Yayasan Ayo Indonesia, Asosiasi Petani Kopi Manggarai (Asnikom) dan para pelaku usaha kopi mendaftarkan KAM demi mendapat Sertifikat Indikasi Geografis (SIG).

Sayangnya, perhatian ini belumlah terfokus. Banyak kelompok dampingan Yayasan Ayo mengakui bahwa intervensi pemerintah melalui APBD belum tampak. Tanaman kopi yang mereka miliki umumnya adalah peninggalan Bupati Manggarai terdahulu Drs. Gaspar Parang Ehok, MP dengan program Gemparnya. Dari sisi usia tanaman, kopi-kopi ini sudah sangat tua dan perlu diremajakan ataupun diganti dengan varietas baru.

Dari sisi penguatan sumber daya manusia (human resources development) mereka membutuhkan dampingan dari petugas lapangan terlatih dengan kontinuitas yang terjaga. Petani-petani mengeluh bahwa dampingan hanya datang dari lembaga swadaya masyarakat. Itupun baru menyentuh sebagian dari begitu banyak jumlah petani kopi di Manggarai Raya.

Dalam situasi dimana usaha peningkatan Pendapatan Asli Daerah (PAD) terus digalakkan berbasis potensi daerah dan sumber daya alam yang sangat mendukung dari sisi tanah yang subur dan kultur bertani kopi yang sudah mentradisi, fokus pemerintah daerah adalah memberikan dukungan penuh agar kopi kembali menjadi primadona dan identitas kedirian orang Manggarai.

Karena itu, pendampingan serius atas Kelompok Petani Kopi (KPK) akan memberi daya ungkit yang besar bukan saja untuk menjamin mutu produk, tetapi juga menjamin jumlah produk dan keberlanjutan produk untuk jangka waktu yang panjang. Sebab, KAM adalah kopi premium dengan mutu yang tetap terjaga, pasokan yang tak terbatas dan merupakan pencipta pasar yang tak pernah mati. Tujuan akhirnya adalah harga kopi petani meningkat, daya beli masyarakat dan dunia usaha makin tinggi, petani menjadi sejahtera.***

(Dipublikasi pertama oleh: www.floressmart.com, Jumat, 14 Agustus 2020)

Kanisius Deki

Staf Pengajar STIE Karya, Peneliti Lembaga Nusa Bunga Mandiri

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